Finger-less hand warmers in the process

I haven’t posted any new patterns recently, and that’s because I’m working on these finger-less hand warmers. I’ll post the pattern once I’m done. ūüôā





Stay bitchin’!


Brandy Melville Inspired Chunky Beanie

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So I was doing some window shopping on the internet the other day and found this beanie on the Brandy Melville site ( that I loved. ¬†But it was $20. ¬†“Seriously, $20? ¬†I could make something just like that!” – that was my thought process. ¬†So I gathered up some of my knitting supplies and made a similar beanie for less than¬†a third of the cost.


Supplies used:

  • 1 skein Deborah Norville Serenity chunky tweed yarn (other bulky weight yarns will work just as well)
  • US 11 (8.0 mm) 16 inch circular needles
  • US 8 (5.0 mm) DPNs (4 or 5 DPNs depending on your preference)
  • Place marker (not necessary but very useful)
  • Tapestry needle



*Note – this information may be useful for beginners; if you are a well-versed knitter or have knit a hat or two before, feel free to skip ahead

My head measures about 22 inches, so I did a gauge swatch (4in. X 4in square in garter stich) with the circular needles to determine how many stitches per inch I would normally knit.  I measured 2 stitches per inch (the yarn is fairly bulky).  Originally I had intended to only cast on 40 stitches, but I cast on 42 instead so that I could knit more comfortably in the round (40 was a little tight when I tried it first).

You could go off of the measurements that I used for myself, but I would highly suggest:

  1. measuring your own head
  2. making your own gauge swatch with the yarn and needles that you intend to use for this project
  3. determining the number of stitches that you made per inch in your gauge swatch
  4. calculating the number of stitches that you would need to cast on

*Helpful formula for determining number of cast-on stitches*: (head measurement – 2 inches) x (number of stitches per inch)


Alright, now for the actual pattern.



K1 – knit 1

P1 – pearl 1

PFB – pearl front and back

K2Tog – knit two together



Cast on 42 stitches (or number determined by gauge) in an alternating knit 1, pearl 1 pattern using the cable cast-on method.  The first stitch will be your pearl stitch; the next stitch will be cast on knit-wise.

Continue in the P1 K1 cast-on pattern until you reach 42 stitches; place your place-marker, turn work and join in the round.  Work in the K1 P1 rib pattern until the brim measures 1 1/2 inches.  At the beginning of the next round, increase using the PFB method; pearl the rest of the stitches in this round.


Work in a K1 P1 pattern until the total work measures 7 inches (including the brim).  So far, you should have a K1P1 ribbed brim and a seed stitch body.


Switch to DPNs.  Spread all stitches across your DPNs (note to beginners: use all but one needle; that last DPN is what you will use to knit with).

row 1: *Knit 4, K2Tog* – repeat to the end of the round

row 2: Knit all stitches to the end of the round

row 3: *Knit 3, K2Tog* – repeat to the end of the round

row 4: Knit all stitches

row 5: *Knit 2, K2Tog* Рrepeat to the end of the round

row 6: Knit all stitches

row 7: *Knit 1, K2Tog* Рrepeat to the end of the round

row 8: Knit all stitches

row 9: K2Tog all stitches until the end of the round

row 10: Knit all stitches


Use your tapestry needle to thread the yarn through the remaining stitches; weave in any yarn tails.


Please, if you have any questions, comments, concerns, etc., leave a message in the comments below.

If you want me to make any tutorial blogs or videos for any of the methods mentioned in this blog post (e.g. cable cast-on method, PFB, making a gauge swatch, determining amount of cast-on stitches, etc.), I’d be more than happy to. ¬†Just let me know in the comments. ¬†ūüôā


Stay bitchin’!

hannah s signature