I haven’t posted any new patterns recently, and that’s because I’m working on these finger-less hand warmers. I’ll post the pattern once I’m done. 🙂
Stay bitchin’!
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needle work
Brandy Melville Inspired Chunky Beanie
So I was doing some window shopping on the internet the other day and found this beanie on the Brandy Melville site (http://www.brandymelvilleusa.com/accessories/beanies/haylynn-knit-beanie-097.html) that I loved. But it was $20. “Seriously, $20? I could make something just like that!” – that was my thought process. So I gathered up some of my knitting supplies and made a similar beanie for less than a third of the cost.
Supplies used:
- 1 skein Deborah Norville Serenity chunky tweed yarn (other bulky weight yarns will work just as well)
- US 11 (8.0 mm) 16 inch circular needles
- US 8 (5.0 mm) DPNs (4 or 5 DPNs depending on your preference)
- Place marker (not necessary but very useful)
- Tapestry needle
Preface:
*Note – this information may be useful for beginners; if you are a well-versed knitter or have knit a hat or two before, feel free to skip ahead
My head measures about 22 inches, so I did a gauge swatch (4in. X 4in square in garter stich) with the circular needles to determine how many stitches per inch I would normally knit. I measured 2 stitches per inch (the yarn is fairly bulky). Originally I had intended to only cast on 40 stitches, but I cast on 42 instead so that I could knit more comfortably in the round (40 was a little tight when I tried it first).
You could go off of the measurements that I used for myself, but I would highly suggest:
- measuring your own head
- making your own gauge swatch with the yarn and needles that you intend to use for this project
- determining the number of stitches that you made per inch in your gauge swatch
- calculating the number of stitches that you would need to cast on
*Helpful formula for determining number of cast-on stitches*: (head measurement – 2 inches) x (number of stitches per inch)
Alright, now for the actual pattern.
Abbreviations:
K1 – knit 1
P1 – pearl 1
PFB – pearl front and back
K2Tog – knit two together
Pattern:
Brim:
Cast on 42 stitches (or number determined by gauge) in an alternating knit 1, pearl 1 pattern using the cable cast-on method. The first stitch will be your pearl stitch; the next stitch will be cast on knit-wise.
Continue in the P1 K1 cast-on pattern until you reach 42 stitches; place your place-marker, turn work and join in the round. Work in the K1 P1 rib pattern until the brim measures 1 1/2 inches. At the beginning of the next round, increase using the PFB method; pearl the rest of the stitches in this round.
Body:
Work in a K1 P1 pattern until the total work measures 7 inches (including the brim). So far, you should have a K1P1 ribbed brim and a seed stitch body.
Decrease:
Switch to DPNs. Spread all stitches across your DPNs (note to beginners: use all but one needle; that last DPN is what you will use to knit with).
row 1: *Knit 4, K2Tog* – repeat to the end of the round
row 2: Knit all stitches to the end of the round
row 3: *Knit 3, K2Tog* – repeat to the end of the round
row 4: Knit all stitches
row 5: *Knit 2, K2Tog* – repeat to the end of the round
row 6: Knit all stitches
row 7: *Knit 1, K2Tog* – repeat to the end of the round
row 8: Knit all stitches
row 9: K2Tog all stitches until the end of the round
row 10: Knit all stitches
Use your tapestry needle to thread the yarn through the remaining stitches; weave in any yarn tails.
Please, if you have any questions, comments, concerns, etc., leave a message in the comments below.
If you want me to make any tutorial blogs or videos for any of the methods mentioned in this blog post (e.g. cable cast-on method, PFB, making a gauge swatch, determining amount of cast-on stitches, etc.), I’d be more than happy to. Just let me know in the comments. 🙂
Stay bitchin’!
